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Preface |
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Tutbury Castle and its Curious Tenures |
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From 'Abbeys Castles and Ancient Halls of England & Wales' by Timbs & Gunn c1870 |
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The Castle of Tutbury presents to the eye of the visitor little more than a straggled scene of shattered ruins. Yet its appearance is extremely picturesque and its site is worth more than a minute description. The high ground of Needlewood forest, contained between the Trent and the Dove, is brought to a termination eastward by the union of these streams upon the confines of the three shires of Derby, Stafford and Leicester. About five miles above this confluence upon the right or Staffordshire bank of the Dove, Stand the town and Castle of Tutbury, once, according to Leyland, a residence of the Saxon lords of Mercia; and named, it is said from the god Throth, who presides over Tuesday and is thought here to have been worshipped. The etymology is supported by Wednesbury; but, however this may be, Tutbury was certainly an ancient stronghold and the site possesses in that respect unusual advantages. It is tutelar to the little town of Tutbury, with its beautiful church standing on the rise of the hill which ends abruptly on the banks of the Dove, giving an expansion prospect as far as the eye can reach, over Staffordshire and the famous Peak hills of Derbyshire. The sharp broken outline of the tower and wall, when seen from this point, bespeaks the ravages of time and war which have reduced this once celebrated fortress to its present state of ruin. | |||
| The Castle crowns the head of a considerable
ridge of new red sandstone rock, which projects from the high ground of
Hanbury and Needwood and forms an abrupt promontory above the broad and
level meadows of the Dove. On the South on landward side, the hill is
partially severed from its parent ridge by a cross valley, within and
about which is built the ancient town of Tutbury. The natural position of
the Castle is strong and well defined; it has been turned to account from
a very remote period and materially strengthened by Norman and pre-Norman
art. Three of the sides are further protected by a broad and deep ditch;
towards the North, where the hill projects upon the meadows, the ditch
ceases and this front, rising steeply about 100 feet, has been rendered
steeper by art. Upon the south-west and west sides, the earth has been
employed to form a large mound, about 40 feet high and 70 feet across,
which renders this front almost impregnable. The base-court of the castle
covers about three acres; it is in plan an irregular circle. The best view
of these magnificent earthworks is from the summit of the mound, which not
only predominates over the court of the Castle to its east, but westward
rises very steeply about 140 feet from the meadows.
The masonry which has been added to the earlier defences is composed of a group of buildings on the south front, flanked by curtains, which run west and east along the top of the bank. This curtain, now about 6 feet, was originally 20 feet high, with a rampart accessible from its flanking tower and by a double flight of open steps from within. The east curtain is broken a lofty rectangular mural tower, which faced the turn of the road up to the Castle, on the opposite side of the ditch: the interior wall, with a square angled-turret, only remains. This tower is perpendicular in style and has evidently been blown up by gunpowder. |
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| At the north end of this curtain is the grate gatehouse almost entirely outside the wall; the portal has side lodges. Only its south and east walls remain. From two solid cheeks of wall, the drawbridge fell across the moat; two portcullis grooves remain. The masonry has been removed and the ditch here solidly filled with earth. | ![]() |
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Upon the summit of the mound is a ruined round tower, an erection of modern times, probably as a summer-house. There is said to have been an earlier building here, destroyed before the reign of Elizabeth probably by John of Gaunt: it was called the Julius Tower, a not uncommon name for such a structure. The beauty of the view from this, the highest ruin of Tutbury, amply compensates for all the danger of the gaping clefts in the wall by uncertainty of foothold. The Dove is seen winding its silvery stream in the plain beneath.; while beyond it, field over field rise to view, the distance bounded by the high hills of Matlock, which, in the year are tipped with snow. | |||
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The Castle buildings have been broken down, but what remains is as sharp and fresh as though lately executed. The outward wall and altered windows remain of the great hall; at the west end is a brick building, probably of about the time of Queen Anne, or George II. At the east end is a group of state apartments. Here are two very fine crypts, no doubt cellars, entered from the court by handsome doorways and six or eight descending steps. They have been covered with barrel vaults, ribbed transversely and diagonally, with large carved bosses – fitted receptacles for the very best of drinks. Above there are handsome rooms, with chimney places with mouldings set with flowers and the “hart lodged” and what may be a conventional pomegranate. These buildings are in the best and perpendicular style. In the court is a deep well, still in use. |
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| So far as can be observed, the castle exhibits no
trace of Norman masonry. All the structures, walls, tower, gatehouse, hall
and apartments are nearly or quite of one date; and probably the work of
John of Gaunt, who resided here very frequently in regal state. This is
remarkable as Tutbury is mentioned in Doomsday; was the caput of a very
important Norman honour and the principle seat of the great Norman family
of Ferrers, earls of Derby, from the Conquest to their ruin towards the
close of the reign of Henry III, since which time it has been, for the
most part, in the Duchey of Lancaster.
Tutbury, as mentioned in our account of Chartley, was one of the prison-houses of Mary Queen of Scots, in a low range of buildings at the south-east angle of the Castle. It originally consisted of two large rooms, an upper and a lower one; the former has disappeared; but the square holes in the wall are visible, in which the beams of the flooring were inserted. Of the lower apartment, the walls remain; the entrance is by a descent of several steps; It had a vaulted ceiling and the projecting ledges or supports afford by their accumulation of earth sufficient nourishment for brambles. The room is lighted by two small windows, deeply cut in the thick wall. The upper room had two large pointed windows, commanding a fine view, the extent of which, to its luckless prisoner Mary, must have made her narrow prison more irksome and dreary. She was removed hither from Chartley and placed under the care of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, then constable of Tutbury Castle. At Chartley the Queen had been placed under the care of Sir Amias Paulet, when Anthony Babington, of Dethic and his accomplices attempted to rescue her: maintaining a correspondence with her by means of a hole in the wall, which they closed with a loose stone; the attempt however, ended in their own destruction and the removal of the Queen to Tutbury. “Like every other place of her confinement”, Says Mrs Howitt, “Chartley is a ruin. Crumbling walls, trees growing where rooms once were and inscribed with the names or initials of hundreds of visitors; tall weeds and melancholy yews, spreading around their shade – mark the spot as one fraught with many subjects of thought on the past and the present, on the changes of the times and of national character. |
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“Although the temporal evidence of the splendour of the House of Ferrars has disappeared. the memory, as usual, of their ecclesiastical beneficence has been preserved. The parish church of St. Mary, once the church of the Ferrars abbey of Tutbury, still stands scarcely a stones cast from the Castle wall and seems anciently to have been included within the outer defences. It was founded by Henry de Ferrars, in the reign of Rufus and has a Norman nave, clerestory and aisles and its west end is one of the richest and most perfect Norman fronts in existence. This edifice, which has been much misused, has had the Norman portion restored by Mr. Street, the eminent architect, who has also added a large polygonal aspe, or east end, to the chancel. This is probably the chapel of St Mary within the Castle, in which (Edward I), Edmund Earl of Lancaster founded a special mass” | |||
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Tutbury is a curious old place, with old services and customs, some of which are entitled to be called “Jocular Tenures,” Thus when John of Gaunt was lord of this Castle, Sir Philip Somervile the manor of Briddeshall by these services: that when his lord keepeth Christmas at his Castle of Tutbury, on Christmas Eve and be lodged in the town by the Marshal of the Earl’s house; and on Christmas-day he shall go to the dresser and carrying his lord’s mess to his table, shall carve the meat to his lord and this he shall do as well at supper as at dinner: and when his lord hath eaten, the said Sir Philip shall sit down in the same place where his lord has sat and shall be served at the table by the stewards of the Earl’s house. And upon St. Stephen’s Day, when he hath dined, he shall take his leave of his lord and shall kiss him; and for this service he shall nothing take and nothing give. These services Sir Philip performed to the Earl of Lancaster forty-eight years for the manor of Briddeshall. |
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“Before we came to it, we heard a strange shouting, |
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And all that were in it look’d madly; |
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For some were a bull-back, some dancing a Morrice, |
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And some singing Arthur O’Bradley!” |
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| In an old play, ‘The Faire Maide of Clifton’ by William Sampson, 1646, this practice flourished at Tutbury; for in Act V. we read: “He’ll keep more stir with the Hobby Horse, than he hid with the pipers at Tedbury Bull-running.” Munday in his elegantly-descriptive poem of “Needlewood Forest” (Written in 1770), has thus glanced at the celebrities of Tutbury: | ||||
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“With awful sorrow I behold |
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Yon cliff that frowns with ruins old; |
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Stout Ferrars* there kept faithless ward, |
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And Gaunt performed his castle-guard** |
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There captive Mary*** look’d in vain |
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For Norfolk and her nuptial train; |
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Enrich’d with royal tears the Dove, |
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But sigh’d for freedom not for love. |
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‘Twas once the seat of festive state, |
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Where high-born dames and nobles sat; |
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While minstrels each in order heard, |
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Their venerable songs preferr’d |
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False memory of its state remains |
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In the rude sport of brutal swains. |
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Now serpents hiss and foxes dwell |
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Amidst the mouldering citadel; |
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And time but spares those broken towers |
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In mockery of human powers.” |
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| The Steward of the manor held at Tutbury, to our time, a court called Minstrels’ Court. | ||||
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* Robert de Ferrars joining a rebellion against Henry III., forfeited the possession of Tutbury ** A service imposed upon those to whom castles and estates adjoining were granted. *** Mary Queen of Scots was a prisoner in Tutbury Castle at the time of the Duke of Norfolk’s intrigues. She listened to his proposals of marriage as the only means of obtaining her liberty, declaring herself otherwise averse to further matrimonial connexions. |
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