Preface

 
         
 

Tutbury Castle and its Curious Tenures

 
 

From 'Abbeys Castles and Ancient Halls of England & Wales'  by Timbs & Gunn c1870

 
         
  The Castle of Tutbury presents to the eye of the visitor little more than a straggled scene of shattered ruins. Yet its appearance is extremely picturesque and its site is worth more than a minute description. The high ground of Needlewood forest, contained between the Trent and the Dove, is brought to a termination eastward by the union of these streams upon the confines of the three shires of Derby, Stafford and Leicester. About five miles above this confluence upon the right or Staffordshire bank of the Dove, Stand the town and Castle of Tutbury, once, according to Leyland, a residence of the Saxon lords of Mercia; and named, it is said from the god Throth, who presides over Tuesday and is thought here to have been worshipped. The etymology is supported by Wednesbury; but, however this may be, Tutbury was certainly an ancient stronghold and the site possesses in that respect unusual advantages. It is tutelar to the little town of Tutbury, with its beautiful church standing on the rise of the hill which ends abruptly on the banks of the Dove, giving an expansion prospect as far as the eye can reach, over Staffordshire and the famous Peak hills of Derbyshire. The sharp broken outline of the tower and wall, when seen from this point, bespeaks the ravages of time and war which have reduced this once celebrated fortress to its present state of ruin.  
         
  The Castle crowns the head of a considerable ridge of new red sandstone rock, which projects from the high ground of Hanbury and Needwood and forms an abrupt promontory above the broad and level meadows of the Dove. On the South on landward side, the hill is partially severed from its parent ridge by a cross valley, within and about which is built the ancient town of Tutbury. The natural position of the Castle is strong and well defined; it has been turned to account from a very remote period and materially strengthened by Norman and pre-Norman art. Three of the sides are further protected by a broad and deep ditch; towards the North, where the hill projects upon the meadows, the ditch ceases and this front, rising steeply about 100 feet, has been rendered steeper by art. Upon the south-west and west sides, the earth has been employed to form a large mound, about 40 feet high and 70 feet across, which renders this front almost impregnable. The base-court of the castle covers about three acres; it is in plan an irregular circle. The best view of these magnificent earthworks is from the summit of the mound, which not only predominates over the court of the Castle to its east, but westward rises very steeply about 140 feet from the meadows.

The masonry which has been added to the earlier defences is composed of a group of buildings on the south front, flanked by curtains, which run west and east along the top of the bank. This curtain, now about 6 feet, was originally 20 feet high, with a rampart accessible from its flanking tower and by a double flight of open steps from within. The east curtain is broken a lofty rectangular mural tower, which faced the turn of the road up to the Castle, on the opposite side of the ditch: the interior wall, with a square angled-turret, only remains. This tower is perpendicular in style and has evidently been blown up by gunpowder.

 
         
  At the north end of this curtain is the grate gatehouse almost entirely outside the wall; the portal has side lodges. Only its south and east walls remain. From two solid cheeks of wall, the drawbridge fell across the moat; two portcullis grooves remain. The masonry has been removed and the ditch here solidly filled with earth.  
         
  Upon the summit of the mound is a ruined round tower, an erection of modern times, probably as a summer-house. There is said to have been an earlier building here, destroyed before the reign of Elizabeth probably by John of Gaunt: it was called the Julius Tower, a not uncommon name for such a structure. The beauty of the view from this, the highest ruin of Tutbury, amply compensates for all the danger of the gaping clefts in the wall by uncertainty of foothold. The Dove is seen winding its silvery stream in the plain beneath.; while beyond it, field over field rise to view, the distance bounded by the high hills of Matlock, which, in the year are tipped with snow.  
         
 

The Castle buildings have been broken down, but what remains is as sharp and fresh as though lately executed. The outward wall and altered windows remain of the great hall; at the west end is a brick building, probably of about the time of Queen Anne, or George II. At the east end is a group of state apartments. Here are two very fine crypts, no doubt cellars, entered from the court by handsome doorways and six or eight descending steps. They have been covered with barrel vaults, ribbed transversely and diagonally, with large carved bosses – fitted receptacles for the very best of drinks. Above there are handsome rooms, with chimney places with mouldings set with flowers and the “hart lodged” and what may be a conventional pomegranate. These buildings are in the best and perpendicular style. In the court is a deep well, still in use.

 
         
  So far as can be observed, the castle exhibits no trace of Norman masonry. All the structures, walls, tower, gatehouse, hall and apartments are nearly or quite of one date; and probably the work of John of Gaunt, who resided here very frequently in regal state. This is remarkable as Tutbury is mentioned in Doomsday; was the caput of a very important Norman honour and the principle seat of the great Norman family of Ferrers, earls of Derby, from the Conquest to their ruin towards the close of the reign of Henry III, since which time it has been, for the most part, in the Duchey of Lancaster.

Tutbury, as mentioned in our account of Chartley, was one of the prison-houses of Mary Queen of Scots, in a low range of buildings at the south-east angle of the Castle. It originally consisted of two large rooms, an upper and a lower one; the former has disappeared; but the square holes in the wall are visible, in which the beams of the flooring were inserted. Of the lower apartment, the walls remain; the entrance is by a descent of several steps; It had a vaulted ceiling and the projecting ledges or supports afford by their accumulation of earth sufficient nourishment for brambles. The room is lighted by two small windows, deeply cut in the thick wall. The upper room had two large pointed windows, commanding a fine view, the extent of which, to its luckless prisoner Mary, must have made her narrow prison more irksome and dreary. She was removed hither from Chartley and placed under the care of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, then constable of Tutbury Castle. At Chartley the Queen had been placed under the care of  Sir Amias Paulet, when Anthony Babington, of Dethic and his accomplices attempted to rescue her: maintaining a correspondence with her by means of a hole in the wall, which they closed with a loose stone; the attempt however, ended in their own destruction and the removal of the Queen to Tutbury. “Like every other place of her confinement”, Says Mrs Howitt, “Chartley is a ruin. Crumbling walls, trees growing where rooms once were and inscribed with the names or initials of hundreds of visitors; tall weeds and melancholy yews, spreading around their shade – mark the spot as one fraught with many subjects of thought on the past and the present, on the changes of the times and of national character.

  Tutbury was held for the King and taken by the Parliament, in the wars of Charles I. Subsequently, by order of the House, it was reduced very nearly to the condition in which it is now seen.

 
         
  “Although the temporal evidence of the splendour of the House of Ferrars has disappeared. the memory, as usual, of their ecclesiastical beneficence has been preserved. The parish church of St. Mary, once the church of the Ferrars abbey of Tutbury, still stands scarcely a stones cast from the Castle wall and seems anciently to have been included within the outer defences. It was founded by Henry de Ferrars, in the reign of Rufus and has a Norman nave, clerestory and aisles and its west end is one of the richest and most perfect Norman fronts in existence. This edifice, which has been much misused, has had the Norman portion restored by Mr. Street, the eminent architect, who has also added a large polygonal aspe, or east end, to the chancel. This is probably the chapel of St Mary within the Castle, in which (Edward I), Edmund Earl of Lancaster founded a special mass”  
         
 

Tutbury is a curious old place, with old services and customs, some of which are entitled to be called “Jocular Tenures,” Thus when John of Gaunt was lord of this Castle, Sir Philip Somervile the manor of Briddeshall by these services: that when his lord keepeth Christmas at his Castle of Tutbury, on Christmas Eve and be lodged in the town by the Marshal of the Earl’s house; and on Christmas-day he shall go to the dresser and carrying his lord’s mess to his table, shall carve the meat to his lord and this he shall do as well at supper as at dinner: and when his lord hath eaten, the said Sir Philip shall sit down in the same place where his lord has sat and shall be served at the table by the stewards of the Earl’s house. And upon St. Stephen’s Day, when he hath dined, he shall take his leave of his lord and shall kiss him; and for this service he shall nothing take and nothing give. These services Sir Philip performed to the Earl of Lancaster forty-eight years for the manor of Briddeshall.

  Sir Philip also held the manors of Tatenhall and Drycot, in this country, by the following services: that he, or his attorney, should go to the Castle of Tutbury, upon St. Peter’s day, in August and show the steward that he is come to hunt and take his lords greese, or wild swine, at the cost of his lord; whereupon, the steward shall cause to be delivered to Sir Philip on horse and saddle, worth 50 shillings, or that sum to provide one and one hound; and shall likewise pay to Sir Philip, for everyday to Holyrood-day, two shillings and sixpence for himself and one shilling for his servant and hound. And the woodmasters of the forest of Needlewood and Duffield, with all the parkers and foresters, are to attend upon Sir Philip, while their lords greese is taking in the said forest, as upon their master during that time; and at the expiration thereof , Sir Philip shall deliver up the horse and barcelet  (or hound), to the steward with whom he has dined on Holyrood-day at the Castle of Tutbury, he shall kiss the porter and depart.

  But the most extraordinary custom at this place was the barbarous diversion called Tutbury Bull-running, the origin of which is too curious to be omitted. During the time that the ancient Earls and Dukes of Lancaster hade their abode and kept a liberal hospitality at their honour at Tutbury, great numbers of people resorted here from all parts, for whose diversion musicians were permitted to come, to pay their services. At length quarrels arose, when it was necessary to form rules for a proper regulation of these services and a governor was appointed by the name of King, who had officers under him to see the laws executed; As appears by the charter granted to the King of the Minstrels, by John of Gaunt dated August 22, 4th of King Richard II. In the reign of Henry VI, the Prior of Tutbury – for there was an abbey founded here by Henry de Ferrers, for Benedictine monks, which Abbey was richly endowed and remained in great splendour until the reformation – gave the minstrels, who came to matins there on the feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, a bull to be taken on this side the river Dove, or else the prior paid them forty pence. This custom continued after the Reformation, with Alterations.

  On the 16th August the minstrels met in a body at the house of the bailiff, where they were joined by the steward of the manor, from whence they marched in couples, to church, the King of the minstrels walking between the steward and the bailiff, with music playing, each of the four under officers carrying a white wand immediately following and then the rest of the company. Being seated in the church, prayers were read and a sermon preached, for which each of the minstrels paid the Vicar a penny. From hence they returned in procession to the large hall in the Castle, where the King sitting between the bailiff and steward, made a report of such minstrels had offended against the statutes, when the guilty were fined a small sum. Moreover, to exhort them better to mind their duty, the steward gave them a long charge; in which he expatiated largely upon the origin and excellence of music; its power upon the passions; how the use of it had always been allowed in praising and glorifying God; and although it might sometimes be demeaned by vagabonds and rogues, he maintained that such societies as theirs, legally founded and governed by strict rules, were by no means included in that statute. This charge being finished and various forms gone through, they retired to the great hall, where an excellent dinner was provided and the overplus given to the poor.

  The next object was the taking of the bull, for which purpose the minstrels repaired to the Abbey-gate and demanded him of the prior; afterwards the went to a barn by the town-side, where the bull was turned out with his horns cut off, his ears cropped and his tail diminished to the very stump, his body besmeared with soap; and his nostrils filled with pepper, to increase his fury. Being then let loose; the steward proclaimed that none were to come nearer to the bull that forty feet, nor to hinder the minstrels, but to attend to their own safety. The minstrels were to take him before sunset, on this side of the river, which if they failed to do and he escaped into Derbyshire, he still remained the lord’s property. It was seldom possible to take him fairly, but if they held him long enough to cut off some of his hair, he was then brought to the market-cross, or bull-ring and there baited; after which the minstrels were entitled to the bull.

  Hence originated the rustic sport of Bull-running, which, before the close of the last century, had become a horrible practice. The harmony of the minstrels had turned to discord and noise; their solemn and harmless festivity into rioting and drunkenness and the white wands of the officers into clubs and destructive weapons. In short, the sport had got to such a pitch of madness and cruelty, that not content with torturing the poor bull, the people fell in the most savage manner upon each other, so that it became a faction fight between the mobs of the two counties; and seldom a year passed without great outrages and frequently loss of life. Happily, the Duke of Devonshire, who had become owner of the Castle and lord on the manor, abolished the inhuman custom.

  The hivie-skivie and tag-rag of the scene are thus noticed in a ballad of the early part of the last century:

 
         

Before we came to it, we heard a strange shouting,

And all that were in it look’d madly;

For some were a bull-back, some dancing a Morrice,

And some singing Arthur O’Bradley!

In an old play, ‘The Faire Maide of Clifton’ by William Sampson, 1646, this practice flourished at Tutbury; for in Act V. we read: “He’ll keep more stir with the Hobby Horse, than he hid with the pipers at Tedbury Bull-running.” Munday in his elegantly-descriptive poem of “Needlewood Forest” (Written in 1770), has thus glanced at the celebrities of Tutbury:

With awful sorrow I behold

Yon cliff that frowns with ruins old;

Stout Ferrars* there kept faithless ward,

And Gaunt performed his castle-guard**

There captive Mary*** look’d in vain

For Norfolk and her nuptial train;

Enrich’d with royal tears the Dove,

But sigh’d for freedom not for love.

‘Twas once the seat of festive state,

Where high-born dames and nobles sat;

While minstrels each in order heard,

Their venerable songs preferr’d

False memory of its state remains

In the rude sport of brutal swains.

Now serpents hiss and foxes dwell

Amidst the mouldering citadel;

And time but spares those broken towers

In mockery of human powers.

The Steward of the manor held at Tutbury, to our time, a court called Minstrels’ Court.
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* Robert de Ferrars joining a rebellion against Henry III., forfeited the possession of Tutbury

** A service imposed upon those to whom castles and estates adjoining were granted.

*** Mary Queen of Scots was a prisoner in Tutbury Castle at the time of the Duke of Norfolk’s intrigues. She listened to his proposals of marriage as the only means of obtaining her liberty, declaring herself otherwise averse to further matrimonial connexions. 

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